Salicylic Acid Versus Niacinamide: Which Is Better for Oily Skin

The use of salicylic acid and niacinamide in topical skin care products is becoming increasingly common.

Both are beneficial for oily skin, but salicylic acid (BHA) is more effective because it dissolves heavier fatty acids and oils and thoroughly cleanses the skin’s layers. (1) Because it dissolves in oil, salicylic acid can penetrate deep into the pores to remove excess oil, cut down on oil production, and shrink the size of pores, all while treating acne. (2)

In addition, niacinamide and salicylic acid both have anti-inflammatory properties, (3)(4) but determining the better ingredient for your oily skin depends on its specific needs.

Oily skin results from the overproduction of sebum by the skin’s sebaceous glands. Sebum has a waxy, oily consistency, and it protects and moisturizes the skin. The proper amount of sebum helps maintain healthy skin. Excessive amounts can cause unwanted side effects such as oily skin, clogged pores, and acne. (5)

In people who have oily skin and experience acne, lower levels of free fatty acids and higher amounts of squalene peroxide were observed in the sebum composition as compared to those without acne. (6)(7) This increased amount of squalene could represent a lipid marker for acne-prone skin.

Niacinamide and salicylic acid, two beneficial products for oily and acne-prone skin, will be the subject of a comprehensive analysis in this article. Many online resources insist that salicylic acid is the superior choice due to its drying effects, but combining the two may be even more effective.

Examine all your options to determine which ingredient is ideal for your oily skin.

Which Is Best for Oily Skin, Salicylic Acid or Niacinamide?

Salicylic Acid	Niacinamide
Combats acne brought on by oily skin	Reduces acne
Exfoliates the layer of dead skin cells	Has anti-inflammatory properties
Decreases sebum production in the skin	Reduces sebum production
Reduces inflammation and redness of the skin	Helps to reduce open pores

According to the properties of both ingredients and current scientific evidence, niacinamide and salicylic acid work well and can do wonders for oily and acne-prone skin.

However, many experts recommend 2% salicylic acid instead of niacinamide to remove excess greasiness and provide a drying effect. This is because salicylic acid balances the pH effectively for oily skin, while niacinamide can have a moisturizing effect. (8)

What Is Salicylic Acid?

Salicylic acid, a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), is found in willow bark, fruits, and vegetables in their natural forms. Acids like this one are keratolytic agents (agents that soften keratin and loosen and assist the exfoliation of skin cells).

While AHAs are water-soluble, salicylic acid’s molecular structure makes it oil-soluble. (9) Thus, this ingredient can penetrate oil layers and exfoliate pores, clearing any buildup.

Salicylic acid dissolves the “glue” that holds skin cells together, thereby reducing the appearance of acne. Therefore, those with oily or acne-prone skin should opt for it.

How Does Salicylic Acid Improve Oily Skin?

These are the ways salicylic acid helps oily skin.

1. Combats acne brought on by oily skin

Acne is commonly treated with salicylic acid, a beta-hydroxy acid that has been shown to have anti-inflammatory and lipid-lowering effects on the skin. Salicylic acid chemical peels with a concentration of 20%–30% effectively treat acne.

Most over-the-counter acne treatments contain salicylic acid. It can be found in washes, creams, and lotions, with concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 3.0%.

Acne vulgaris causes both non-inflammatory and inflammatory lesions, and topical salicylic acid has mild to moderate activity against both. (10) The “gold standard” superficial peel for treating acne contains 30% salicylic acid. (11)

NOTE: Salicylic acid is safe for use on acne in children. However, topical use of salicylic acid is not recommended in children less than 2 years of age. (10)

2. Exfoliates the layer of dead skin cells

Salicylic acid helps in the exfoliation of the uppermost layer of dead skin cells (stratum corneum), making it a promising agent for peeling, especially for patients with acne. (3)

3. Decreases sebum production in the skin

The salicylic acid found in willow bark and eucalyptus has been found to decrease the skin’s sebum production.

Acne can be exacerbated by sebum, an oily substance. Blockage of pores is a major contributor to acne. (3)(12)

Salicylic acid helps to unclog pores (13) by reducing the amount of sebum produced by the skin, which helps keep the pores clear and reduces the risk of developing acne.

4. Reduces inflammation and redness of the skin

As a salicylate, salicylic acid has anti-inflammatory properties, making it a valuable treatment for inflammation and redness. A concentration of 0.5%–5% salicylic acid (3) can reduce inflammation.

Salicylic acid is also antibacterial, which means it can eliminate acne-causing bacteria. (3)

5. Dissolves in oil

Salicylic acid dissolves in oil, making it attractive to the skin’s sebum. Because of its chemical composition, salicylic acid is miscible with oil but not water.

Salicylic acid’s lipophilicity (solubility in oil) contributes to its effectiveness in treating acne by allowing it to quickly enter the sebaceous gland, which produces large amounts of sebum. (2)

What Is Niacinamide?

Niacinamide is a water-soluble vitamin commonly found in topical products such as creams and serums. (14)

Niacinamide goes above and beyond alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids. It’s not a neutral substance but gentler and doesn’t irritate as much as others. Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 and has calming and curative effects.

Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is an essential coenzyme in the cellular energy production cycle. It is synthesized from the niacin you get from food, particularly liver, fish, nuts, and multivitamins. (14)

Niacin is converted to niacinamide, which then forms the coenzymes NADH and NADPH after combining with amino acids in the cells. These two coenzymes play crucial roles in DNA repair and cellular turnover regulation and are essential to the body’s metabolic processes. (15)

Since niacinamide has been shown to lessen the severity of sunburned skin, it is a great ingredient that likely functions as an anti-inflammatory agent. (10)

How Does Niacinamide Improve Oily Skin?

These are the ways niacinamide helps oily skin.

1. Reduces acne

Pustular acne (a pimple with yellowish pus that can also appear as a red bump) and papular acne (small, inflamed bumps caused by excessive oil in the skin, bacteria, hormones, and some medications) have both been shown to benefit from niacinamide’s anti-inflammatory properties.

Worldwide, the prevalence of acne has decreased significantly after patients were treated with a topical niacinamide solution at a concentration of 4%. (16)

Oily skin is often the root cause of acne (17) – the oil can clog pores and increase the frequency of acne breakouts. (18) Pus from dead skin cells, oil, and dirt accumulate and become stuck in a pore, leading to acne.

The result is the development of blackheads or whiteheads and an ideal condition for the proliferation of acne bacteria. Propionibacterium acnes thrives and causes inflammation, which results in pimples. (12)

2. Has anti-inflammatory properties

When applied topically, niacinamide boosts the skin’s natural antioxidant defenses, improving the epidermal (outer skin) barrier function and lessening redness and blotchiness. Inflammation of oily, acne-prone skin is reduced. (19)

3. Reduces sebum production

Niacinamide blocks sebocyte secretions, leading to less sebum production and drier skin.

In one study, 2% niacinamide significantly reduced sebum excretion rates after 2 and 4 weeks of topical application. Topical niacinamide may benefit those who struggle with oily skin. (17)

4. Helps to reduce open pores

Niacinamide can help to reduce open pores, which are also signs of oily skin. A 2021 study mentioned that niacinamide alone helped in reducing open pores. (18)

How to Use Salicylic Acid and Niacinamide Together?

Incorporating salicylic acid and niacinamide into your skin care routine is a surefire way to see dramatic results for your skin. The bright side is that many products on the market combine niacinamide and salicylic acid.

Niacinamide can be combined with salicylic acid in the following ways:

• Niacinamide serum, moisturizer, salicylic acid cleanser (sunscreen if AM)
• Cleanser, a salicylic acid serum (once to three times a week), niacinamide moisturizer (sunscreen if AM)
• Moisturizer, salicylic acid serum (once or twice a week), niacinamide serum, and cleanser (sunscreen if AM)

The order in which you apply niacinamide and salicylic acid serums is insignificant, but serums should be applied first, followed by moisturizer.

However, it’s best to roll out each new product individually. This will aid in determining if your skin has an adverse reaction to any ingredients and prevent any damage to the skin’s protective barrier.

To better prepare your skin for introducing salicylic acid, niacinamide should be used first. Clinical research found that using niacinamide for 4 weeks before tretinoin (prescription-strength retinol) and then twice daily with tretinoin decreased irritation.

General Queries Related to Salicylic Acid and Niacinamide for Oily Skin

Final Word

Acne, redness, breakouts, and irritations are all caused by an overabundance of sebum produced by the sebaceous gland.

Researchers have found that niacinamide can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, treat sun damage, and reduce inflammation. Since the skin quickly absorbs this vitamin, it can be used as a topical treatment.

In contrast, salicylic acid, the skin care star, removes stubborn blackheads and restores a radiant glow. Because it is oil-soluble and exfoliating, it aids in the removal of dead skin cells while reducing sebum production and battling bacteria.

There’s a lot of data on how helpful salicylic acid and niacinamide can be. They contribute to your effort to eliminate oil but in different ways. However, salicylic acid is the most effective treatment for oily and acne-prone skin.